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Denton, TX Road Trip
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eagles09 Offline
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Denton, TX Road Trip
Thinking about getting a group together for the UNT Southern Miss football game and looking for an overview of Denton. We like to drink, so I need specifics like bars and the rules of tailgating. Also where should we stay?
04-01-2014 03:16 PM
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Irish Rowdy Offline
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
(04-01-2014 03:16 PM)eagles09 Wrote:  Thinking about getting a group together for the UNT Southern Miss football game and looking for an overview of Denton. We like to drink, so I need specifics like bars and the rules of tailgating. Also where should we stay?

how old are you?
04-01-2014 03:58 PM
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meangreener Offline
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
(04-01-2014 03:16 PM)eagles09 Wrote:  Thinking about getting a group together for the UNT Southern Miss football game and looking for an overview of Denton. We like to drink, so I need specifics like bars and the rules of tailgating. Also where should we stay?

Denton was recently voted Best College Town in Texas, Best Small Town in America and is one of the fastest growing towns in the country. But it has a small quirk. If you drive around Denton, you'll be underwhelmed. It's very old. It's very grungy. It's not pretty. But what it is is an incredibly unique, fun, funky and weird town. So here's a little run down for you.

Over 20? Avoid Fry Street for the bars. It's kind of like a mini 6th Street (Austin) but a lot more frat-tastic. There's really only two good bars on Fry Street if you're over 20; where all the liberal art students hang out Cool Beans and the sports bar/dive mix Lucky Lou's. Avoid the rest of Fry. (Although, Crooked Crust has amazing pizza.) When people think of Denton they think of Fry, because before half of it burned down, it was the arts corridor. Now there's a huge student living complex with a Chipotle, Potbelly, Yogurt, etc in the old spot. But the remaining buildings with all the bars and Voertman's are very old as well as weird. Homeless people hang out by Big Mike's Coffee, and there's murals as well as street performers everywhere. Fry is known for students, homeless people, and a dude in a 1980 Ford van selling homemade "herbs" blowing bubbles after 8. Despite all of the weird art vibe, most of Fry has just become a wasteland for fraternities and "shots shots shots" kind of students. It's just...a little weird, new and old, just like Denton. It's really convenient because it is literally on our campus. I go to Fry all the time, but for cheap drinks, and not to showcase the best we have.

If you want the more grown-up art/culture/bar scene, go to the Square. The Square is where our arts and culture corridor moved to after old Fry Street got pretty much blown up. It was recently voted best main street in America. On the Square (and directly off) you have amazing bars, lounges and "beer gardens" as well as music venues, weird bookstores, record stores, etc. We have our 35Denton and Thin Line Fest (35 Denton is a massive, SXSW-style festival (some call it better) that we hold down here in all these places I'm reeling off.) In the middle you have a lawn and a huge courthouse that was renovated. Also, bizarrely enough, a Confederate monument. Hipsters lay on the lawn and often smoke weed (seriously.) I'd say "we mean green" and leave it at that. Families sit out there and have picnics, our Square is picturesque.

Here's a rundown of best places on the Square:
(The Square is what Denton is known for and wins awards for.)

Oak Street Draft House - Best "bar" in Denton. It's located in the oldest house in Denton. Tacky furniture inside, but not run down at all. Texas beer emporium. Affordable. Make good cocktails, too. Huge patio outside (the "beer garden.") It's where all the locals who live here hang out and less the student population. Make sure to grab some Armadillo Ale Greenbelt (if you like light) or Armadillo Quakertown Stout as well as Armadillo Brunch Money if you like stouts. Local beer. The Greenbelt and Brunch Money is unlike anything you've probably ever had. (In a good way.) Really only widely available in Denton, but it's at pretty much every store and bar in the town. Get some. Delicious stuff. Also, can't leave Texas without a Saint Arnold. Try the Endeavor. Texas only IPA. Good stuff.

East Side Social Club - Classy club with a huge patio. Huge whiskey and beer selection, mostly Texas stuff. More of a typical bar, but also upscale. Still tends to attract more Fry Street-type folks. Interesting place. Owned by the same guy who owns Oak Street.

Pascall Bar - Owned by the band Midlake. Looks run down and sketchy from the outside, and is above of a metal venue called Andy's. You have to enter a side door. Feels like an Ivy League bar. Best cocktails you can get in Texas. Very pricey. They have books, chessboards, and just overall feels like a hipster hangout. Professors hang out here. Great, if you want expensive drinks. They charge $4 for a Bud Light can.

WineSquared - Great wine bar on the Square, older folks usually. Huge wine selection.

The Labb - Sports bar. Dirty, grungy, gross. But they have pool tables, lots of TVs and cheap drinks (but if you want cheap drinks go to Fry Street.) Smells like stale cigarettes. Slimeball owner so the employees usually are also on the slimy side. Decent place to watch sports, if you just watch who you interact with and what you touch.

theCellar 22 - Classy cigar/wine bar in a cellar. Separated into a wine section and a place for both wine and cigars if you don't like cigar smoke. Really cool vibe here. Arty professors/graduate students hang here.

Banter - Coffee/hipster hangout. Lots of poetry and indie music. Cool, but can get very pretentious if you aren't on the look out.

Jupiter House - Get some of Denton's Bookish Coffee here. Excellent coffee. Where the locals grab coffee. Been around forever.

Mad World Records - Like taking a step back in time. Great record store, great owner. They have any record from any band you can imagine. CDs, too. Also Atari in the back and cassette tapes. Insanely busy though.

Recycled Books - This place routinely makes the rounds online because of how bizarre it is; it's a bookstore with books shoved in every cranny of this former opera house. Very creaky. Very badass. If you've ever seen the photo of the "Books for tall people" shelf online, this is where it's from. You can find any book ever at this place.

J&J's Pizza - Pizza is alright and a little pricey but there's usually free experimental concerts in the basement. They serve Schlitz and are quite proud of it; best cheap beer you can get.

The Abbey Inn - Great pub food. They open the windows when it's nice outside. A little greasy, but overall not bad. Excellent British beer selection.

Mulberry Street Cantina - Great cantina style food, cheap alcohol, kinda like a sports bar. Only been here once, it's brand new, but people rave about it.

Beth Marie's Ice Cream - Old fashioned Ice Cream parlor. Soda fountain as well. Literally, taking a step back in time, just about everything in the place could be found in the 1920s. Ridiculous amount of flavors. Best ice cream in the metroplex.

Dan's Silverleaf - Your favorite indie band or once-was-indie-band played or is playing here. If you like music, you've got to experience Denton music while you're here, Paste's 2008 Best Music Scene and Huffington Post recently called our music scene "the cool kids' alternative to Austin." Laundry list of super famous indie bands have played at this place over the years. Best acoustics, by far.

Rooster's - Great barbeque, cool atmosphere, cold beer. Fuzzy's Tacos next door is also great but a little bit pricey and gets overran by freshman college kids way too often.

Rubber Gloves Rehearsal Studios - Looks like a crack house. Is not crack house. Cheap alcohol. Also many people just hang out here (they have a lounge area.) Bands from Death Cab for Cutie to At the Drive-In have played here. More amazing music. So loud you won't hear for weeks if you don't wear earplugs. It's in an old industrial shack and you can tell by the rattling during metal shows. Recently saw the avant-garde metal band Kayo Dot here.

Off the Square/Fry:
Cigar Frog's Piano Bar - Piano bar/cigar lounge/wine bar. Really fancy and upscale. Really pricey. For the older, yuppie crowd. Pretty cool place, nonetheless.

Big Mike's Coffee - Also looks run down. Best people watching in Denton. Snooty baristas. Incredible coffee. If you like mochas or whatever, ORDER ONE. You will not regret it.

Cool Beans - Looks run down. Cheap alcohol, best crowd, super friendly. This is my favorite place on Fry Street by far.

Midway Mart - Need beer for the game? This place has EVERY beer you could ever imagine. In an old gas station (think Clerks) but is wall-to-wall with every craft beer, ever. Also huge Texas selection. IMO, we are the craft beer capital of the world, so check it out. Don't leave without trying some Saint Arnold (best craft brewery in Texas) or Armadillo Ale (Denton's finest.)

Lucky Lou's - Nice sports bar/dive hangout. Leave after 10 (overran by Frat dudes.) Also cheap alcohol.

La Estrella - Some of the best authentic Mexican tacos you'll ever have. Period.

El Guapos - Typical Tex-Mex fare.

As far as the places you should hit if you're here for a day or two, grab some coffee at Big Mike's, go stop by Recycled Books and Mad World, get some food at Crooked Crust or Rooster's (or maybe tacos at La Estrella) grab some Texas beer at Midway Mart, tailgate out on the hill, go grab some after-game IHOP, head over to Lou's for some late night drinking, maybe see who is playing at Dan's or Rubber Gloves, then head on back to the hotel.

If you want the usual chains, you have to go to the outskirts of Denton, in the city limits you can't have chains without expressed consent of the City Council (288 area, Rayzor Ranch). Don't go to the mall. Don't do it. I'd say to just stay away from 288 because the traffic is awful and you already know what you're going to get over there. Same goes for Rayzor Ranch.

You'll see some weird crap and lots of small businesses here. But Denton is a weird mix of very old and very new, thus a weird dynamic.

As far as UNT, or tailgating, here's your options...
Apogee Stadium is on one side of I-35, and Fouts Field (old stadium) the other. Usually the visitors tailgate by Fouts or the visitors' team will set up a tent by our music hall off of that lot. While that's cool and all, it's just a parking lot and a grass lot. It's not very compact, either so the atmosphere can be weak. Best bet is to park AT Fouts, then walk across the bridge to Apogee, and tailgate "on the hill." The hill is directly outside of Apogee, and it's pretty much just a massive party. Cool mix of fraternity parties/students/alumni just tailgating on the hill. Live music, etc is always there. You can also park in a field directly across the street from Apogee but traffic is usually pretty bad on that street.

Visitors sit in a pretty terrible spot depending on the time of year. If it's hot and an early game, the visitors are in sunlight the whole game. Also, they sit by our cannon, Boomer, which is a replica of an old cannon. Just to let you know how loud it is, I jump every time I hear it. We got official complaints from UTEP and UTSAKFC fans last year because of how loud it is. Visitors on the student side so things can get a bit rowdy but overall, we're nice to visitors. We should have much better crowds this year, but you'll be surprised that 20K is louder than 30K or 40K at a lot of places. MTSU players and coaches complained about the students and the noise, and there was 22K at the game.

Apogee is a great stadium and atmosphere. I'm biased but I've been to a lot of stadiums and wouldn't trade it for anything. Looks very big from the road, but it's quite small. Since the Hill is around it, it really feels like a massive festival with parties, tailgating, beer, etc. Enjoy it!

Security is awful. You can't bring anything in, food is iffy and we don't sell beer yet.

Afterwards, if you dare, like I said, go hit Lou's or Oak Street. Gotta get there early. Then go hit a show if that's your scene.

QUICK NOTE: Traffic in this town is horrific. The roads are built for a city that is not 120,000 strong. People say it feels like a small town because it LOOKS and is set up like a small town. Just...be weary. Our roads are hellacious. They're a mix of one-way roads that turn into two-way, pot holes, patches and just overall terrible designed roads. I-35E into Dallas is undergoing a huge expansion so half of the exits are closed. Stay off the freeways if at all possible during rush hour or add 2 hours to your commute.

OVERALL, Denton is unique and awesome. Anyone who knows me knows that I don't like "typical Texas" or DFW, but love Denton. I don't even like Austin. I planned on going back to Houston, but I fell that deep in love with this bizarre town we affectionately call "little d." The suburbs are encroaching to the South on the Dallas side, but that's really only on the 288 area and we're a little too far to ever lose our charm as a city; thus doubt Denton will ever become Plano. We're just too strange and unique.

I can't lie, as of right now, UNT's campus is not that beautiful. For whatever reason, UNT has decided to all their construction THIS YEAR. So it's a massive, dusty wasteland. When not under construction, it's one of the most beautiful campuses in the country. Flanked by old Fry Street, historic houses on Hickory, and new construction on Oak, it's just a really unique mix of new and old. We have some hideous 60s style Brutalism buildings like the GAB then beautiful buildings from the 1920s like the Auditorium Building. But because of the construction, campus is just kind of a mess. Still, the Library Mall is always beautiful and is UNT in a nutshell, as is the Hickory area. Coming up Avenue B with the clock tower in the back is one of the best sights in Denton.

UNT
[Image: Mall.jpg]

[Image: 88445582.jpg]

Denton square
[Image: denton_tx.jpg]

Key is to not let the grunge scare you off. We're proud of the grunge. We're proud of the old. It's not even grungy; it's just old and we keep what's old unlike most of DFW (for the most part.) We have great 5-star steakhouses in really old buildings such as Tim Love's Queenie's Steakhouse. Bookstores in Opera Houses. We're not as old as we used to be, but still maintains that look and feel. If you envision Texas as suburbs for miles and strip malls; well, Denton isn't that. It's a little lower-income and mostly free of suburbia. It's incredibly safe, anywhere you go (except Cement City, right by Fouts, moderately dangerous) is pretty much about as safe as mid-sized cities go. We're all friendly as hell and that's what we're known for.
(This post was last modified: 04-02-2014 10:29 AM by meangreener.)
04-01-2014 04:38 PM
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NTTHOR Online
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
Good Lord that is awesome! I live here and enjoyed the hell out of the lineup...Thank you!!!
04-01-2014 04:46 PM
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WKUYG Away
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
Never went to a game in Denton but was looking forward to it this year....

then UNT isn't even on the WKU schedule.

We (my son and I and sometimes my wife) travel a lot for WKU football and basketball and we did get a chance to checkout the UNT campus on our last SBC basketball road trip last month along with the Southern Miss campus. Like meangreener said UNT has a nice looking campus and as far as the city I prefer old over something new so hopefully we get to try out one of those steakhouses next basketball season.
(This post was last modified: 04-01-2014 06:40 PM by WKUYG.)
04-01-2014 06:33 PM
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NorthTexan95 Offline
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
Great job, Meangreener.

It cannot be stressed how large and how many hidden areas there are in Recycled Books. I think there are still a couple of freshmen from 1993 still trying to find their way out.

Meangreener did leave out Beth Marie's Ice Cream on the Square. Old time feel to the place and terrific ice cream!
04-01-2014 08:01 PM
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laxtonto Offline
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Post: #7
RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
If you guys make it to town early and want a campus tour I can probably be convinced to drag you around a bit as long as I don't have a class to teach. As it gets closer to game-day let me know via PM and ill see what I can do.

And be careful and not let Thor drink all your beer on gamedays... :)
04-01-2014 08:16 PM
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NTTHOR Online
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
Shiatt
...I'll give a tour for beer!!!
04-01-2014 08:39 PM
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Pony94 Offline
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Denton, TX Road Trip
Plummmeangreen buys premium beer
04-01-2014 08:43 PM
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Curtzilla Offline
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
(04-01-2014 04:38 PM)meangreener Wrote:  Denton has become a clash of two cultures. First is the heritage liberal-arts/ecletic college town that Denton has pretty much always been. The past decade or so has seen encroachment from the DFW suburbs. This is especially true along the South and East sides of town away from the campus. That culture is the Escalade-driving Perry-voting transplants that have been infesting the DFW exurbs for several decades now, finally reaching Denton.

Security is awful. You can't bring anything in

You're not trying hard enough. Not a game goes by without enjoying some SoCo or Belmont Estates Rhum (from St Kitts...get ya some) from my perch in lower Sec E.

food is iffy

It's a mix. The regular concession stuff is the usual Aramark-style stuff but the private vendors such as Rudy's BBQ or Beth Marie's Ice cream is more than worth what they charge.

Also, traffic is miserable and the roads are the equivalent of hell. They're rebuilding I-35 so it's a disaster zone and our roads are a mix of one-way, two-way, pot holes, poorly designed roads, and patches.

Stay in Denton. The best places are at the I-35/US 380 intersection just north of the stadium.
04-01-2014 10:04 PM
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meangreener Offline
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
(04-01-2014 10:04 PM)Curtzilla Wrote:  
(04-01-2014 04:38 PM)meangreener Wrote:  Denton has become a clash of two cultures. First is the heritage liberal-arts/ecletic college town that Denton has pretty much always been. The past decade or so has seen encroachment from the DFW suburbs. This is especially true along the South and East sides of town away from the campus. That culture is the Escalade-driving Perry-voting transplants that have been infesting the DFW exurbs for several decades now, finally reaching Denton.

Security is awful. You can't bring anything in

You're not trying hard enough. Not a game goes by without enjoying some SoCo or Belmont Estates Rhum (from St Kitts...get ya some) from my perch in lower Sec E.

food is iffy

It's a mix. The regular concession stuff is the usual Aramark-style stuff but the private vendors such as Rudy's BBQ or Beth Marie's Ice cream is more than worth what they charge.

Also, traffic is miserable and the roads are the equivalent of hell. They're rebuilding I-35 so it's a disaster zone and our roads are a mix of one-way, two-way, pot holes, poorly designed roads, and patches.

Stay in Denton. The best places are at the I-35/US 380 intersection just north of the stadium.

Agreed with most of what you said. The first thing is true, but scary. But at the same time, the development around the Square and all the lofts keeps me confident they won't get much farther. Especially with the traffic. 45 minutes is such a beating into Dallas. At some point though, you sprawl too far. Hope it doesn't hit Denton. Also, there's still about a 20 mile gap between FW and denton. Let's hope it remains that way. If it becomes another suburb, all of that charm I discussed will just go away. All you have to do is drive down Locust to see we're not a suburb. We have Bed & Breakfasts on Locust. There's so much town pride now and that weird crowd that doesn't fit in the "DFW mentality" that you just have to think Denton's government will save us from suburban hell.

Still, it's something to think about and pray that never happens. I love this place

Also, I can't believe I forgot about Beth Marie's. Can't miss.
(This post was last modified: 04-01-2014 10:52 PM by meangreener.)
04-01-2014 10:50 PM
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PredatorUTEP Offline
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Post: #12
RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
Denton is a great place. Not the prettiest place in the world, but it has a great atmosphere. My favorite coffee place was Big Mikes. If you like hookah, there's a bunch of hookah shops in the area. I'd suggest the square over fry street, like previously recommended. I was an aart student, so I loved the culture around UNT and in Denton.
04-02-2014 08:45 AM
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shiftyeagle Offline
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
Also may make this trip.
04-02-2014 08:51 AM
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meangreener Offline
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
(04-02-2014 08:45 AM)PredatorUTEP Wrote:  Denton is a great place. Not the prettiest place in the world, but it has a great atmosphere. My favorite coffee place was Big Mikes. If you like hookah, there's a bunch of hookah shops in the area. I'd suggest the square over fry street, like previously recommended. I was an aart student, so I loved the culture around UNT and in Denton.

Big Mike's is my hangout. Completely forgot it as well. I'm literally there every day. Can't believe I forgot it.
04-02-2014 09:49 AM
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CMJ Offline
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Post: #15
RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
I used to love Sweetwater Grill back when I lived in Denton (it's JUST off the Square). It's been years since I have eaten there, so their quality may have gone downhill, but they had the best chicken fried steak in town back in the day.

I miss Denton...great place to live.
(This post was last modified: 04-02-2014 10:01 AM by CMJ.)
04-02-2014 10:01 AM
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NTTHOR Online
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
sweetwater was just sold to some locals and they are doing some remodeling...

http://www.dentonrc.com/local-news/local...tavern.ece
04-02-2014 10:25 AM
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meangreener Offline
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
(04-02-2014 10:01 AM)CMJ Wrote:  I used to love Sweetwater Grill back when I lived in Denton (it's JUST off the Square). It's been years since I have eaten there, so their quality may have gone downhill, but they had the best chicken fried steak in town back in the day.

I miss Denton...great place to live.

The quality dropped drastically. The owners sold it to a new owner who supposedly is going to renovate and reinvigorate it. I hope so. Last time I was there was during 35Denton and it was terrible.
04-02-2014 10:25 AM
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meangreener Offline
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
Also, if you want some good Texas beers, here's my list:
(Familial ties to St Arnold so I'm biased.)

St Arnold Lawnmower - Classic wheaty light beer. What they're famous for.
St Arnold Santo - Dark, but light Kolsh. Good stuff, easy to drink.
St Arnold Endeavor - High ABV double IPA beer. Very fruity. Amazing. Hard to find, on tap at Oak.
Armadillo Greenbelt - Tastes like oranges. Weird but great light beer.
Armadillo Quakertown - Best stout in Texas. Period.
Armadillo Brunch - Tastes like pancakes and chocolate. Strange. Stout.
Rahr Stormcloud - Favorite regular Texas IPA
Rahr Texas Red - Really good amber
Shiner Bock - duh
Southern Star Bombshell - Incredible light lager, my favorite.

All of these are at Oak or East Side. That's all we do is drink craft beer up here. (And the hipsters smoke American Spirits--gross.)

Armadillo is Denton local and hard to find outside of the city but is everywhere inside so don't miss!
(This post was last modified: 04-02-2014 10:36 AM by meangreener.)
04-02-2014 10:35 AM
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NTTHOR Online
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
i don't like any of the armadillo brews...but i'm not a wheat or stout fan...
04-02-2014 10:45 AM
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CMJ Offline
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RE: Denton, TX Road Trip
(04-02-2014 10:25 AM)meangreener Wrote:  The quality dropped drastically. The owners sold it to a new owner who supposedly is going to renovate and reinvigorate it. I hope so. Last time I was there was during 35Denton and it was terrible.
I had heard from some people that it wasn't as good as it used to be. I probably haven't eaten there in 6-7 years (or been a regular since even longer), so though sad, not a shock to hear. Hopefully it'll get better again.

Back when I was in school (1996-2001) I probably tried the CFS everywhere in town, and nobody had them beat.
04-02-2014 11:06 AM
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