(07-11-2017 06:46 PM)geef Wrote: Big Bend might be my favorite place in the United States. You're dead on - magical doesn't even begin to describe it. I spent a winter there in the mid-90s working on the trail crew. We used to pay an old Mexican guy a buck to row us across the river at Rio Grande Village (one of us had to bail water as he rowed), then walked into the town in Mexico. Shot pool with Federalis (guns and all), then hung out with an American bar owner who was an excellent guitar player. Just a few years later, Robert Earl Keen met him and he became the subject of 'Gringo Honeymoon' (give it a listen).
There's a great hot spring, with a hidden one in the middle of a bamboo thicket nearby, in an old abandoned house overlooking the Rio Grande and Escalante(?) Canyon. I'm a hot spring fan, and nothing's ever approached this one.
Had some great times at La Kiva and the Starlight in Terlingua (saw Jerry Jeff Walker at the Starlight), but nothing approaching David Byrne in Marfa. And, damn straight on the Gila Wilderness - another awesome place.....
You're referring to Boquillas, a short boat ride across the Rio Grande (or I've walked and swam across for various reasons too). The guitar player is Danny, and he didn't own the Park Bar, he was just a fixture there for many many years. He spent about a decade there in Boquillas as a fugitive from the DEA. He finally gave himself up, served his time, and I understand he's still around in Terlingua, along with a son who's also a talented guitar player. I came across this photo last night online of Danny and Doris Sanchez, who owned the Buzzards Roost "Bed & Breakfast" (or more accurately, "cot and frijoles").
Many great times there. Boquillas fell on hard times after 9-11, as President Bush closed down the "unofficial" crossing. No tourists for over 10 years was a very tough time for them, as they're effectively cut off from the rest of Mexico due to its remoteness. Before the crossing was shut down, all their mail and food came from the US side. I don't know how they survived without, but they are some tough SOB's.
The good news is that there is now an official port of entry...even if the crossing is still by the same old jon boat. It re-opened in 2013...at a cost of something like $5 million for an unmanned port of entry. If you want to cross now you've got to bring a passport, get a visa on the Mexican side, and check back in on the US side. I'm sure we're much safer for it.
My son's first trip outside the US was on that little aluminum jon boat about two years ago. Boquillas has really changed. For one, they have electricity now...a small solar plant was opened 2 years ago, so they now have things like refrigerators! (I mean, the Park Bar always had a refrigerator full of cerveza, but now they can plug it into an outlet!)
The town has doubled in size since they re-opened the border, up to 250 people now. Jose Falcon still has a restaurant, and with electricity, you can get ice cold drinks and dishes with MEAT in them!!! The Falcons have even opened up a small hotel there. It's come a long ways. I'm happy for all our friends there.